Protecting partner's pass

We’re playing negative doubles, a standard bidding method in this century. After an overcall of an opening bid, a double by responder is not for penalty; it instead shows some values without the right shape or strength for a free bid, and strongly suggests a useful holding in an unbid major suit. But that’s not all there is to playing negative doubles…

Vul: E-W

Dlr: South

You hold:

♠ 8 

♥ A K J 8 4

♦ K 10 9 6 

♣ A J 7

South (you)	West	North	East
1 ♥ ??	1 ♠	Pass	Pass

ANSWER: Double. Nominally your double is for takeout, you have a good hand with good support for the unbid suits. But what you’re really hoping for is that partner has a fistful of spades!

THE PRINCIPLE: Playing negative doubles, responder has no way to make a penalty double of an overcall. In an auction that goes opening-overcall-pass-pass, the opening bidder must protect responder’s hand by keeping the auction alive – preferably with a double. Particularly with shortness in the overcalled suit, opener must double because responder can’t. Of course, responder won’t always have a stack in the opponents’ suit; sometimes she’ll just have a weak hand and bid 1NT or take some other weak action.

The complete hand:

	North
	♠ Q J 7 2 ♥ Q 3 ♦  A Q 3  ♣ Q 4 3 2
West		East
♠ A K 9 5 4  ♥ 9 7 2 ♦ J 8 4 2 ♣ 9		♠ 10 6 3 ♥ 10 6 5 ♦ 7 5 ♣ K 10 8 6 5
	South (you)
	♠ 8 ♥ A K J 8 4 ♦ K 10 9 6  ♣ A J 7

At the table, 1♠ doubled was set two tricks for NS +500 -- a better result than making four or five notrump. Take a look at North’s hand. With game-going values, she made a very disciplined decision to Pass after the 1♠ overcall, trusting you to protect her by keeping the auction alive. Bravo! She’s really really hoping you can double; don’t let her down!

Declarer's Arch

Photo: Jonathan Zander

Yes, that's Delicate Arch in southern Utah, but today we're talking about Declarer's Arch. Or more accurately, Declarer's ARCH; it's not in Utah.

Playing matchpoints, nobody vulnerable, you are the dealer.

♠ K Q J 10 x x   ♥ --   ♦ K Q 10 x x   ♣ Q x

S (you)	West	North	East
1 ♠ 3 ♦ 3 ♠	2 ♥ Pass Pass	Pass Pass 4 ♠	Pass 3 ♥ All pass

West leads the ♦7. 

North

♠ 9 8 x ♥ x x ♦ A 9 8 x x x  ♣ x x

South (you)

♠ K Q J 10 x x ♥ -- ♦ K Q 10 x x  ♣ Q x

West leads the ♦7. Your play?

ANSWER: Which card you play here doesn't matter much. But did you remember to ARCH ?

THE PRINCIPLE: Before playing to the first trick, take a few moments to think the hand through.  A handy checklist is the acronym ARCH: Analyze, Review, Count, How.

• ANALYZE the lead; Is it from an honor sequence, or fourth best from length, or a doubleton, or a singleton, or something else? 
• With only the J and 7 of diamonds missing, it looks like a singleton ♦7.
• REVIEW the bidding: Did the opponents bid or not, and what does that suggest about the shape and values of their hands? 
• West overcalled hearts at the two-level, and East raised only under duress. West didn't bid 4♥. Most of the missing high cards (and there are lot of them!) must be in West's hand. East has long hearts and almost nothing else.
• COUNT your tricks: At suit contracts, it's usually more effective to count losers; at notrump, count your winners. 
• I have a spade loser, two club losers, and maybe a diamond loser but only if West led the 7 from J 7, which doesn't seem likely. Making four looks good, and there's a chance for five.
• HOW will you play: Plan at least a general strategy before playing to the first trick. Will you draw trumps, postpone drawing trumps in order to cross-ruff, try to set up a side suit, or ?? That strategy may affect your play to the first trick. 
• I will lead spades to punch out the ace, when I get back in I'll draw the remaining trumps and run the diamonds. If they don't take both of their club tricks right away, I'll discard a club loser on dummy's sixth diamond. If I play the Q♣ smoothly to the first club trick maybe they'll be persuaded to switch to hearts instead, and I make an overtrick.

So before playing from dummy at trick one -- even if it's a singleton -- remember Declarer's ARCH. Analyze the lead, Review the bidding, Count your tricks, and plan How to play the hand. It wouldn't hurt to arch your back, too; being hunched over all the time is bad for your posture :)

Druid Arch, photo: J. Benjamin Wildeboer

opinion on 12-point openers

WARNING: This article contains my opinions on bidding style, rather than a description of generally-accepted bridge wisdom. Some of what follows is contrary to normal expert opinion. Use at your own risk!

Recently a friend commented that she was getting a lot of bad results opening 12-point hands, and asked for my thoughts on one hand in particular. I've tried to stay away from judgment and style issues on the blog, but I'll wander in here... You are vulnerable:

♠ A J 10 4  ♥ J 4  ♦ A 8 7 5   ♣ Q 9 7

Most experts would open this hand without a second thought, but I probably would not. By modern expert standards I am a deliberately conservative bidder.  As a general rule I'll open "good" 12s and try to pass all the "bad" 12s and most of the mediocre 12s. Most experts will open all 12-point hands, or all but the very poorest.

So what makes a "good" 12?

• a decent five-card (or longer) suit
• a three-suited hand
• two four-card suits with good texture

and a "bad" 12?

• a square hand (4-3-3-3 distribution)
• two four-card suits with poor texture

At matchpoints I use the Rule of 20 (high card points plus length of two longest suits) to assess whether or not everybody else in the room will open. My reasoning is that they all will either open any 12-count or use the Rule of 20, and I just have to decide whether I know something they don't.

♠ A J 10 4  ♥ J 4  ♦ A 8 7 5   ♣ Q 9 7

Reasons to open:

• most of the field will open (Rule of 20)
• the spade suit is nice, and spades is the master suit
• two aces are nice
• is partner a superb declarer?
• is the field strong (Regional Flight A players)?
• are the opponents poor defenders?

Reasons not to open:

• I think the doubleton jack is worthless
• honors are scattered rather than supported
• we are vulnerable
• is partner a weak declarer?
• is the field weak (not Flight A)?
• are the opponents expert defenders?

If the hand contained the same honors but with better texture, for example... 

♠ A Q J 10  ♥ 5 4  ♦ A J 8 7  ♣ 9 7 4

I would gladly open 1♦. 

One thing to keep in mind: if you bid like an expert, you must also play like an expert! Modern experts want to be in all 25-point games, most 24s, and some 23s (especially vulnerable at IMPs). The traditional "26 points for game" is too conservative because the general level of expert declarer play is so much better than it was fifty or sixty years ago. And if you want to be in 24-point games, then you must open 12-point hands. Players like Larry Cohen and Bobby Wolff and most Flight A players will all recognize the sophisticated or perhaps obscure line of play needed to bring home a skinny contract, when you and I are going down without a prayer. My declarer play isn't as good as theirs, so I don't open as light as they do.

This got a little long-winded, sorry. It's all opinion, no hard and fast rules here. My opinions on this are at variance with most experts. Your mileage may vary. Good luck!

SIDE NOTE: This discussion illustrates why I object to the custom of re-shuffling a passed-out hand if the board has not been previously played. I think my decision to pass is the winning decision; others will rush in to bid and live to regret it :)  And that decision deserves a good (or bad) result just as much as if other tables had already bid and played the hand before we passed it out at our table. We don't re-shuffle a board if it appears to be a totally routine flat board, 3NT making 3; why should we re-shuffle if it appears to be a totally routine Passed-Out instead?

Passing the buck

Matchpoints, nobody vulnerable, you are East

♠ J 9 5  ♥ 9 8 6 3  ♦ K 9 4 3   ♣ A Q

North	East (you)	South	West
Pass 2 ♠* 5 ♣	Pass 3 ♠ ??	Pass 4 ♥	1 ♠ 4 ♠

*hearts and a minor, at least 5-5

What do you do over  5♣?

ANSWER:  Pass, forcing partner to choose between declaring or doubling.

THE PRINCIPLE: When our side has bid game intending to make (rather than sacrificing), we will not let the opponents win the contract undoubled. Period. Full stop. Otherwise the opponents will rob us blind at every opportunity. Our side must either bid one more time, or double the opponents. If the choice is clear from your hand, act accordingly; if the choice is not clear, then Pass and let partner decide.  Passing the buck, if you want to think of it that way. The same principle applies if our side has not yet bid game, but has established a game-forcing auction: we will not let the opponents win the contract undoubled.

With only three-card spade support, and two probable defensive tricks in clubs, it is tempting to double for penalties. On the other hand, those club tricks will probably be just as useful in dummy, and the diamond king can be useful either way. More importantly, partner is obviously short in hearts and might want to keep bidding if she has a fistful of spades. So with values that are useful on either offense or defense, leave it up to partner by making a forcing pass, forcing her to choose between bidding or doubling.

But wait, it’s not over yet…

♠ J 9 5   ♥ 9 8 6 3  ♦ K 9 4 3   ♣ A Q

North	East (you)	South	West
Pass 2 ♠* 5 ♣ Pass	Pass 3 ♠ Pass ??	Pass 4 ♥ 5 ♥	1 ♠ 4 ♠ Pass

Your call?

ANSWER: Double. You can’t pass, because the opponents don’t get to win the contract undoubled. Partner could have bid or doubled, but she instead made a forcing pass; passing the buck to you. Well, the buck stops here. You don’t have any extra values for a spade contract, so you must perforce double.

The complete hand:

	North
	♠ K 7 ♥ K J 7 5 2 ♦  --   ♣ K J 9 8 5 3
West		East (you)
♠ A Q 10 8 3 2  ♥  -- ♦ A Q 6 5 ♣ 10 6 2		♠ J 9 5 ♥ 9 8 6 3 ♦ K 9 4 3 ♣ A Q
	South
	♠ 6 4 ♥ A Q 10 4 ♦ J 10 8 7 2  ♣ 7 3

Note: I think West has a clear 5♠ bid over 5♥. With North having shown a club-heart two-suiter, West’s pointy-suit values aren’t likely to be useful on defense. East’s pass of 5 ♣ indicated a hand suitable for either offense or defense, so offense it should have been.

a little white lie

Playing matchpoints, nobody vulnerable, you are the dealer.

♠ K Q J 10 x x   ♥ --   ♦ K Q 10 x x   ♣ Q x

S (you)	West	North	East
1 ♠ 3 ♦ 3 ♠	2 ♥ Pass Pass	Pass Pass 4 ♠	Pass 3 ♥ All pass

West leads the ♦7. Take a moment now to look at dummy and plan your play.

North

♠ 9 8 x ♥ x x ♦ A 9 8 x x x  ♣ x x

South (you)

♠ K Q J 10 x x ♥ -- ♦ K Q 10 x x  ♣ Q x

West leads the ♦7, you play low from dummy, East plays the ♦J to your ♦K.

You lead a small spade to West’s ♠A. She switches to the ♣A – East follows with ♣J (!) – and then leads… Oh, stop, wait a minute. What did you play to the ♣A?

ANSWER:  I hope you played the ♣Q smoothly, in tempo without hesitation.

THE PRINCIPLE:  When you are declarer, be alert for opportunities to sow doubt and confusion in the defenders’ minds. Your ♣Q is worthless – it will never take a trick – so why not play it as if it were a singleton? Maybe the defense will switch to hearts instead of continuing a second club, and you’ll ruff and take the rest of the tricks. Maybe West won’t be fooled; nothing ventured, nothing gained. Expert defenders are less likely to be fooled, but you'll at least gain some respect from them as a crafty opponent.

Just like bluffing at the poker table, playing a falsecard at the bridge table demands a straight face and your normal routine tempo. If you spend any extra time thinking about whether to play the ♣Q, the defenders will surely recognize your attempted deceit. 

Doubling a slam

When is it right to double a slam? Only when it’s going down!

I'm not being facetious. It pays to be very conservative about doubling the opponents when they’ve bid a slam under their own power (e.g., without being pushed in a competitive auction). In general, only double a slam when you’re certain to defeat it with tricks in your own hand. 

BUT... there is one situation where doubling a slam has a very specific meaning…

♠  x x x    ♥ A J x x x   ♦ Q J 10 x x  ♣ --

South	West	North	East (you)
1 ♣ 2 ♠ 3 ♠ 7 ♠	Pass Pass Pass Pass	1 ♥ 2 NT 4 ♦ Pass	Pass Pass Pass ?

Yes, your left-hand opponent just jumped to 7♠. Yes, really. What do you do?

ANSWER: Double, requesting that partner make an unusual lead – a club in this case – so that you can ruff.

THE PRINCIPLE: This is called a Lightner double, named after Theodore Lightner who devised this way back in the 1930s. If the opponents freely bid a slam, a double by the third hand – the defender that is not on opening lead – requests an unusual lead in order to defeat the contract. The player on lead is expected to figure out which suit that would be.

Your partner’s hand

♠  x x   ♥  x x x x  ♦ x x x   ♣ 9 8 x x
From the auction, partner knows that declarer has a fistful of black cards -- at least a 6-5 in clubs and spades. North bid 2NT, promising at least 2 clubs. With partner's four clubs, at least 12 of the clubs are accounted for, so it appears to partner that you are likely void in clubs. Partner leads a club, and badda-bing badda-boom, down one.

Figuring out which suit to lead. The Lightner Double calls for an unusual lead, and there is a rough outline for figuring out which suit that might be:

1. If the defense has bid a suit, don't lead it. Leading our suit would not be unusual.
2. Don't lead trump.
3. If dummy or declarer has bid a side suit, that would be a likely choice.

But most importantly, the player on opening lead must think through the auction and her hand in order to reason out which suit partner wants led.

Note that against a six-level contract, only make a Lightner double when you have another sure trick in addition to the ruff.

The dog that didn't bark. If you are on lead against a slam, and partner did not double... Partner did not ask for an unusual lead, so by implication she's not looking for a ruff; you should make a normal lead, whatever that happens to be given the cards you hold.

The complete hand:

	North
	♠ Q x x ♥ K Q x x ♦ A x x  ♣ 10 x x
West		East (you)
♠ x x  ♥ x x x x ♦ x x x  ♣ 9 8 x x		♠ x x x ♥ A J 9 8 x ♦ Q J 10 x x  ♣ --
	South
	♠ A K J x x ♥ --  ♦ K x  ♣ A K Q J x x

Without the Lightner double, West might not find a club lead. 7♠ makes against any other lead. 

Tempo and ethics

We've all done it.

We've all seen it done.

At your turn in the auction, you look at your cards, count your points, mumble to yourself, look at the ceiling for guidance divine or otherwise, look at your cards again, drum your fingers, sigh and mumble some more, grit your teeth, and after maybe 15-20 seconds of this... Pass.

Tournament players call this "taking a huddle" or "going into the tank". Some hands do present hard problems. Bridge is not an exact science, and there are many hands where experts will disagree on what to do.

But here is the issue:

• "PASS" is a legal call
• "Partner-I-have-a-close-decision-whether-to-bid-something-or-PASS" is not a legal call. 

You didn't say so in words, but your behavior clearly indicated that there is some other possible call for your hand. We -- your partner, your opponents -- don't know exactly what you have, but we know you have some values and your hand is not a clear-cut decision to pass.

Your friendly lunchtime bridge game might accept some table talk, and that's fine when you all agree on it. But there's no place for table talk at the duplicate table; in the laws of duplicate bridge, that constitutes "unauthorized information". No matter how saintly partner might be, she can't help but be inadvertently influenced by the knowledge that you have "more than a plain Pass".

It's not that you are deliberately trying to cheat, but you have inadvertently given partner some extraneous information about your hand, and that's not fair to the opponents. In tournament play, or in a strict duplicate club, an undue hesitation will almost certainly result in a call for the Director. The Director's ruling might place some restrictions on partner's subsequent actions, because of the potential impact of unauthorized information.

WHAT TO DO? Yes, some hands present hard problems. But here are some suggestions for playing an ethical game as much as possible:

• When in doubt, bid. When you realize that you've taken a long time, bid something rather than passing. You might still reveal some unauthorized information, but the violation is usually not quite so egregious. (By the way, "when in doubt, bid" is generally good bridge strategy.)
• Strive for a consistent "Goldilocks" tempo -- not too fast, not too slow. An unusually fast call can be just as revealing as an unusually slow one. Try to develop the habit of a consistent, deliberate tempo even when your choice is clear-cut; three to five seconds seems about right to me.
• If you touch it, take it. Don't let your fingers do the walking in the bidding box. Keep the choices inside your head, make up your mind, and only then reach for the appropriate card from the box.

The implications of bidding tempo are the reason for the STOP card. But that's a separate article, I promise to cover it in the future. Until then, here is some fine print from the ACBL Laws of Duplicate Bridge.

16. B. Extraneous Information from Partner 
1. Any extraneous information from partner that might suggest a call or play is unauthorized. This includes remarks, questions, replies to questions, unexpected alerts or failures to alert, unmistakable hesitation, unwonted speed, special emphasis, tone, gesture, movement or mannerism.
(a) A player may not choose a call or play that is demonstrably suggested over another by unauthorized information if the other call or play is a logical alternative.

-- Ray 
Better Bridge in 5 Minutes. Guaranteed! (or the next one is free)

(updated June 2018 to incorporate 2017 changes in the wording of Law 16)