Get The Tweezers!

♠ 4 ♥ Q 8 4 3 ♦ A J 10 8 ♣ A 8 7 2
Nobody vulnerable, partner opens 1 ♥. Your call?

ANSWER: Bid 3 ♠, showing at least 4-card heart support, game-going values, and a singleton or void in spades.

THE PRINCIPLE: An unnecessarily high jump to a new suit is called a splinter. It shows game-going values in support of partner's last suit, and a singleton or void (a "splinter") in the suit named. It suggests slam interest, in that your hand can ruff partner's losers in that suit. Note that a splinter bid must be Alerted.

A 1 ♠ bid from your hand would have been natural for spades. A 2 ♠ bid would have shown spades, and the meaning would depend on your partnership agreements. In the old days, the jump shift response promised a very strong (17+ HCP) with a good suit. Many partnerships nowadays play the jump shift as weak; there are other possible conventional treatments.

But the unnecessary jump shift – in this case, a double jump shift – is Standard American bridge-speak for "I am short in this suit, and have at least four-card support for your suit. Does that pique your interest in slam, partner?"

Partner can then consider whether your ability to ruff that suit is good news (covering some losers) or bad news (if she has wasted values in that suit). If partner holds something like
♠ J 8 3 ♥ A K J 10 6 ♦ K Q 6 2 ♣ 4
she will realize that the partnership holds first- or second-round control of every suit. No longer worried about too many spade losers, she can bid 4 NT Blackwood, asking for aces. You would show two aces, and partner can bid the easy 25 HCP slam!

Opener can show a splinter, too; not just responder.
♠ A 6 3 2 ♥ A Q 5 2 ♦ A K 10 8 3 ♣ --
You open 1 ♦, partner responds 1 ♥. Of course you want to be in game at the very least. Bid 4 ♣, showing game-going values with four-card heart support and a singleton or void in clubs. Partner will Alert and can take it from there...

The splinter bid sets the trump suit and commits the partnership to game. Any subsequent bids other than in trump are then cue-bids showing controls in whatever style your partnership uses. And if the opponents wander into our auction, forcing passes are in effect; you will either bid one more or double the opponents.

After a splinter bid, partner is in charge of the auction because you (presumably) have fully described your hand. Consequently, splinters by responder are usually limited to at most 14 HCP or so. If you do have significant extra values, better not to splinter; take charge of the auction yourself such as through a Jacoby 2NT game-forcing raise.

BONUS MINUTE: The splinter bids described above are double jumps, but splinters can be used in other situations that are only a single jump. When playing 2/1 Game Force a two-over-one bid by responder creates a game-forcing auction, so there is no need for opener to make a jump shift rebid to force to game. After a game force has been established, a jump shift into a new suit – an unnecessary jump – is therefore a splinter. For example, 1♠ - 2♥ - 4♦ shows a singleton or void in diamonds, with at least four card support for responder's hearts.

-- Ray 

Better Bridge in 5 Minutes. Guaranteed! (or the next one is free)

Things Nobody Told You

Most of the posts here on BBi5M are intended for intermediate players. This one is for our newer players, and may be a useful review for those with more experience.

Welcome to the world of duplicate bridge! I am delighted to see you at the table, and hope you find the game fascinating and fun.

Here are a few suggestions to help smooth your way into duplicate bridge. No fancy conventions here, no card-play wizardry; just some bridge-table equivalents for things you might have learned in kindergarten.

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Mom's First Rule of Bridge: "No one cares if you are good or bad; just don't be slow." (David Yates).

Let your fingers do the walking in the Yellow Pages, not in the bidding box or the cards in your hand. Make up your mind what to bid or play, and only then reach for the bid or the card that you want.

Get the opening lead on the table. Nobody can play bridge until your lead is on the table. Then, and only then, write the contract on your private scoresheet, and enter the contract in the Bridgemate if that's your job.  Don't worry; the contract will not change while you are choosing your opening lead. (See Mom's First Rule...)

Get the dummy on the table. After the opening lead, nobody can play bridge until dummy's cards are on the table. If you are the dummy, be ready to place your cards before writing the contract on your scoresheet or messing with the Bridgemate. (See Mom's First Rule...)

Do something even if it's wrong. If you don't know what to bid or play after 5-10 seconds of thought, I promise you that another twenty or thirty seconds are not going to help, and might make things worse. Just go with your first instinct. (See Mom's First Rule...) The only exception is before playing to the first trick; that is the appropriate time to think through the hand and make a plan.

"There is a special place in Hell for card snappers." (Peg Kaplan) 'Nuff said.

The Director's last name is "Please." There are very few automatic penalties in bridge. When things get messed up (a play out of turn, an insufficient bid, etc.) the Director's job is to restore equity as much as possible. When there is an irregularity at the table, summon the director -- "Director, Please" -- and let the Director sort out how the rules apply in that situation. We've all made every mistake in the book; after all, that's why there is a book!

"To err is human; to forgive, divine." I doubt that Alexander Pope was thinking about bridge back in 1711, but it's good bridge advice nonetheless. I am a better-than-average tournament player, and I make mistakes on more than half of the hands in a session. You will make mistakes. Partner will, too.

It's a game! It's supposed to be fun. So, have fun!

-- Ray 
Better Bridge in 5 Minutes. Guaranteed! (or the next one is free)

It Don't Mean Nothin'

Time for a pop quiz: matchpoints, nobody vulnerable.

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♠ A J 9 2  ♥ K 8  ♦ A 10  ♣ 10 7 6 4 2

Partner	RHO	You
1 ♦	2 ♥	?

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♠ Q 10 7 3  ♥ A 6 5 4 3  ♦ K 5 4  ♣ 6

You	LHO	Partner	RHO
Pass	Pass	1 ♦	2 ♣
?

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♠ A Q 7 4  ♥ K Q 9 3  ♦ K J 5 2  ♣ 7

Partner	RHO	You
1 ♦	2 ♣	?

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♠ A Q 10 3  ♥ 10 2  ♦ 8 7 4  ♣ 9 5 3 2

Partner	RHO	You
1 ♦	1 ♥	?

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ANSWERS: Double, on all four hands.

THE PRINCIPLE: A free bid promises at least a decent five-card suit, and appropriate strength as if there had been no overcall. When partner opens and your right-hand opponent overcalls, bidding a new suit is called a "free bid." (If you pass, partner will still get a chance to bid again, hence the term.) A free bid by an unpassed hand is forcing for one round. A free bid at the two level or higher shows at least 10 points; some partnerships prefer to play the free bid as game-forcing.

A negative double does not mean a weak hand. A negative double promises at least some values, just not exactly the right hand for a free bid at this moment.  It means that a free bid would be a misrepresentation of your hand, either about strength or shape.

Most experts today play that a negative double promises at least four-card support for the unbid major. If there are two unbid majors and you can only support one of them, you should have good support for partner's original suit so that you can retreat back to that suit if necessary.

THE EXCEPTION: When partner opens 1♣ and your opponent overcalls 1♦, the negative double promises exactly 4-4 in the major suits. With any other major suit holding, bid as if there had been no overcall.

-- Ray 
Better Bridge in 5 Minutes. Guaranteed! (or the next one is free)

Playing The Common Game

Compare your results against bridge players nationwide! 

Our club is now playing in The Common Game. Through the magic of the internet and our dealing machine, we play the same hands simultaneously with almost 200 other bridge clubs. Every session includes expert analysis on 8-10 hands; Monday afternoon sessions feature special analysis by Lynn Berg for intermediate-level players. There is no cost, but an ACBL player number is required to access the individualized features. 

The Common Game web site has several very good YouTube tutorials explaining the various features of the Common Game results pages. Those tutorials -- each one is six or seven minutes long -- are a far better introduction than I could provide. Well worth your time...

Double Negative Double

Good opponents are always trying to mess with your nice comfortable auctions. What should you and your partner do when the opponents intervene over your strong 2 ♣ opening? Do you have an agreement?

The standard treatment is:  Pass is positive, Double is negative.

Both calls must be Alerted.

• Double is a "double negative," showing a bust hand with no ace or king, and usually less than 5 HCP or so. If your partnership has a way to show a "double negative" after a 2♣ opening, this is how you show that hand over interference. Opener can pass, bid 2 NT to play, cue bid for takeout, or bid any suit game-forcing.
  
• Pass is a positive response forcing to game, showing at least an ace or king, or maybe lots of "quacks." A re-opening double by the 2♣  bidder is for takeout, usually a 2 NT opener with a poor stopper in the opponent's suit. Any other rebid by opener is natural and forcing to game.
  
• New suit: At least king-queen-fifth, forcing to game

THE PRINCIPLE: If you have a terrible hand, defending might be your last best chance for a plus score. Double suggests this might be our best place to play. Partner's 2♣ opening was forcing to game, so forcing passes are in effect when the opponents enter the auction.

Let's look at some examples after partner opens 2♣, and your RHO bids 2♥

♠ 6 5 4 ♥ J 3 ♦ Q 9 5 2 ♣ J 4 3 2
Double, showing a very poor hand.

♠ 7 5 4 ♥ K 3 ♦ 9 8 5 2 ♣ J 4 3 2
Pass: positive, and forcing to game. You have at least a king, so let partner know that. You can bid notrump later if need be.

♠ K 5 4 ♥ K 3 ♦ Q 9 5 2 ♣ K 4 3 2
Pass: positive, and forcing to game. Some might bid 2 NT (natural and forcing) but I prefer to give partner lots of bidding room. We are certainly heading for a slam, but first we need to figure out which slam; partner is in charge.

♠ K Q 6 5 4 ♥ J 3 ♦ J 5 2 ♣ 4 3 2
Bid 2 ♠: positive, and forcing to game. Don't bid spades twice, though; partner will know you have five spades.

♠ 5 4 3 ♥ K J 10 3 ♦ A 9 ♣ J 4 3 2
Pass: positive, forcing to game. You can bid notrump later. If partner re-opens with a takeout double, you'll have to choose between 4 NT (quantitative invite) or 6 NT. At favorable vulnerability, you might consider passing partner's double to collect the sure profit of at least +500.

BONUS MINUTE: Does your partnership play Jacoby Step Responses or Control Step Responses? If so, use Double and Pass as the first two steps in your response structure. Double shows 0-3 HCP or 0 controls, Pass shows 4-6 HCP or 1 control, the cheapest bid shows the next step, and so on. Remember that any of these calls must be alerted.

-- Ray 

Better Bridge in 5 Minutes. Guaranteed! (or the next one is free)

Partner Is Buying!

NOTE: Instead of a serious bridge lesson, this one is (mostly) just for fun. Enjoy!

	♠ A 9 3 ♥ — ♦ J 10 7 6 4 ♣ A K Q 9 2
	N W E S
	♠ K J 10 5 2 ♥ K 8 7 ♦ A K 9 5 ♣ 7

Same hand as last time. You are in 6 ♠. The opening lead is the ♦ Q, around to your ace.

You cross to dummy's ♠ A, and lead the ♠ 9. Alas, your right-hand opponent shows out and you follow low losing to the queen on your left.

Lefty returns the ♥ A, you ruff in dummy. Then ♣ Q and ruff a club back to your hand to draw the last two trumps, discarding a low club and a low diamond from dummy. Here are your remaining cards (remember that the ♦ Q was played on the first trick):

	♠ — ♥ — ♦ J 10 7 ♣ A K
	N W E S
	♠ — ♥ K 8 ♦ K 9 5 ♣ —

You must cash the ♦ K before crossing to dummy. Which diamond will you play from dummy on the ♦ K? And if you cash the ♥ K too, what will you discard?

ANSWER: Do not play the ♦ 7; unblock one of dummy's high diamonds instead. If you cash the heart, you must discard one of dummy's club winners. Then cross to dummy with the ♦ 9 -- not the ♦ 5 -- and cash the remaining clubs. Finally, and most importantly, win the last trick with the ♦ 7 and proudly announce "Beer!"

THE PRINCIPLE: The ♦ 7 is informally known as the "beer card" . Per tradition, if declarer makes the contract and wins the last trick with the ♦ 7, partner must buy declarer a beer. Similarly, if the defense sets the contract and a defender wins the last trick with the ♦ 7, that defender's partner is obligated to buy.

The origins of the "beer card" are somewhat obscure. It is a popular tradition among the younger generation of bridge players; occasionally a player will take a convoluted line of play just to establish the beer card for trick thirteen.

Cheers!

-- Ray 
Better Bridge in 5 Minutes. Guaranteed! (or the next one is free)

Lookin' For Trouble

Suggested soundtrack: Steve Goodman, "Lookin' for Trouble"

	♠ A 9 3 ♥ — ♦ J 10 7 6 4 ♣ A K Q 9 2
	N W E S
	♠ K J 10 5 2 ♥ K 8 7 ♦ A K 9 5 ♣ 7

You are in 6 ♠. The opponents were silent during the auction. 

The opening lead is the ♦Q, an obvious singleton. How will you play the hand? Most importantly, how will you play the spade suit?

You could play the ♠A and the ♠K, hoping for a singleton or doubleton queen in one of the opponent's hands. Alas, with an eight-card suit the queen falls only about one-third of the time whereas a finesse gives you a 50-50 chance. That's part of the basis for the adage "eight ever, nine never" when in search of a missing queen. Furthermore, if you play for the drop and the spades split badly -- queen-fourth -- it will be almost impossible to prevent the opponents from collecting a trump trick and the heart ace for down one.

So, a finesse it shall be. You can finesse against either opponent. Do you finesse against the queen on your left, or against the queen on your right? How will you play the spade suit?

ANSWER: Look before you leap; your right hand opponent is dangerous! You can't afford to lose a finesse to your right-hand opponent, lest she return a diamond for her partner to ruff. If you lose to the queen on your left, that opponent can't do any further damage; you can pull the remaining trumps before cashing out in clubs and diamonds.

THE PRINCIPLE: In a two-way finesse situation, consider which hand might be more likely to hold the missing card, and also what might happen if you guess wrong. Keeping the dangerous hand off lead is known as an avoidance play:

BONUS MOMENT: When finessing against a queen, it is usually best to cash one of the high honors first. There is about a 6% chance that the queen is singleton, saving you the trouble of finessing.

-- Ray 
Better Bridge in 5 Minutes. Guaranteed! (or the next one is free)